2015 Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
“Considering the successful balance of the 2014, I elected to pick the 2015 Felsenberg a tick earlier than I would have in the past,” notes Fröhlich, “to insure a bit more slimness and precision, with a bit less fat [Speck].” Saline, alkaline and kelp-like notes in the nose put one vividly in mind of the ocean shore, and correspondingly marine impressions runs all the way through this performance. But on top of that, there is something I can only describe as ore-like depth, and which Fröhlich characterizes as “cool, dark minerality.” Fresh lime, crabapple and white peach wreathed in iris, juicily inform the polished palate, and deliver torrential persistence while brilliantly meeting Fröhlich’s goal of “focus.”
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
The 2015 Felsenberg Riesling GG is from volcanic soils and a more narrow part of the valley where the fog stays longer than in Bockenau or Monzingen, so that the smoother skin leads Tim to an earlier picking. The wine opens very precise and flinty, but also fruity, with some yeasty flavors. It seems to be darker or more smoky flavored than the corresponding Kupfergrube. On the palate, this is a rich, very concentrated, precise and piquant Riesling with a long and intense aftertaste. The wine combines its ripe apple flavors with flinty aromas and shows great grip and salinity. The grapes were picked at lower potential alcohol levels than five years ago, but they were still ripe and rich enough for another impressive grand cru from Tim Fröhlich.
The elevation of Fröhlich’s Felsenberg, as one of his generally less-regarded Grosse Gewächse, may ruffle a few feathers, but 'it’s the vintage, stupid', as Bill Clinton might have put it. Mint and flint meet on the nose to combine the best efforts of natural yeasts and minerality. Rocky edges and a taut structure draw the taste buds out of their comfort zone, though fresh green mint and a salty tang soothe and refresh the palate. Not for the squeamish, but one for the future. (MS)