2018 Ronceray Anjou

The 2018 Anjou Ronceray assembles all the plots of the Domaine on the Quarts-de-Chaume rump. Its name refers to the abbey of the same name, owner of the Chaume vineyards since the 11th century, reports Ivan Massonat, who stresses the complex geology of the terroir that combines schists and pudding sandstone. The bouquet of the golden-yellow 2018 is noble, perfectly ripe and concentrated in its elegant stone fruit aromas that intermingle with precise and refreshing slate as well as lemony notes. Filigreed, finessed and perfectly round and intense on the palate, this is a gorgeous Chenin with intense fruit, lush fruit concentration, lots of extract, fine tannins but also finesse and balance. Grapefruit bitters on the finish. To me, this is a picture-book Anjou from Rochefort-sur-Loire, and it is characterized by richness, finesse and elegance. Irresistible. 13.5% alcohol. Tasted in June 2021.

The 2018 Anjou Ronceray assembles all the plots of the Domaine on the Quarts-de-Chaume rump. Its name refers to the abbey of the same name, owner of the Chaume vineyards since the 11th century, reports Ivan Massonat, who stresses the complex geology of the terroir that combines schists and pudding sandstone. The bouquet of the golden-yellow 2018 is noble, perfectly ripe and concentrated in its elegant stone fruit aromas that intermingle with precise and refreshing slate as well as lemony notes. Filigreed, finessed and perfectly round and intense on the palate, this is a gorgeous Chenin with intense fruit, lush fruit concentration, lots of extract, fine tannins but also finesse and balance. Grapefruit bitters on the finish. To me, this is a picture-book Anjou from Rochefort-sur-Loire, and it is characterized by richness, finesse and elegance. Irresistible. 13.5% alcohol. Tasted in June 2021.

In conversion to organic certification (for 2021). This is was Jo Pithon's estate (Pithon-Paillé) sold to Paris banker Ivan Massonnat, although this particular wine comes from 10 ha of vineyards bought from Ch de L'Écharderie. 30-year-old Chenin vines on loamy clay, schist and sandstone. In Rochefort-sur-Loire. Ronceray is the Quarts de Chaume grand cru that hasn’t yet been officially recognised for dry wines. Hand-picked. 30% fermented in barrels. 13 months on lees. RS 0.7 g/l. Bottled December 2019. Savoury with edges that taste of burnt sugar. Smoked honey. Wild flowers. Hay and a gunpowder friction that adds to the length and the inscrutability of the wine. This really does need a bit of age before approaching. A kind of brooding opacity that keeps you lingering outside the fortress walls, trying to find a way to get at the richness within. (TC)