2017 Leeu Estates Passant Basson Old Vine Cinsault

Full bottle 1,370 g. From South Africa's oldest registered red-wine vineyard, a parcel of dry-farmed bush-vine Cinsault planted in 1900 in the deep sandy alluvial soils of Wellington. Grapes were hand-harvested early on 9 February 2017. Yield averaged just 18 hl/ha. 100% whole bunch. Minimal SO 2 is the only addition. As usual for this producer, 'fermentation begins without inoculation'. The wine is punched down twice a day. Temperatures kept at 26 °C. Fermentation lasted 11 days. After fermentation, three weeks' skin contact. The wine was then drained and pressed to barrel. The wine was racked and blended mid-way through the year and bottled after 20 months in barrel. Just 150 cases made. Pale ruby colour. The mineral notes I remarked on in May 2020 when I already thought this wine was pretty mature seem to be receding. I'd drink this sooner rather than later. There's a light rose-petal note on the sweet fruit and it certainly couldn't be accused of heaviness. Attractive freshness and it definitely doesn't fall away on the end but it does seem expensive. (JR)

The 2017 Old Vines Basson Cinsault is fuller and riper on the nose compared to the Lötter Cinsault, featuring exuberant wild strawberry, raspberry preserve, gingerbread and dill aromas, all very well defined and brimming with energy. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy opening, hints of marmalade and orange peel infusing the red fruit, and just the right amount of piquancy toward the finish. There is something "old school" about this Cinsault. Cerebral.

From South Africa's oldest registered red-wine vineyard, a parcel of dry-farmed bush-vine Cinsault planted in 1900 in the deep sandy alluvial soils of Wellington. Grapes were hand-harvested early on 9 February 2017. Yield averaged just 18 hl/ha. 100% whole bunch. Minimal SO 2 is the only addition. As usual for this producer, 'fermentation begins without inoculation'. The wine is punched down twice a day. Temperatures kept at 26 °C. Fermentation lasted 11 days. After fermentation, three weeks' skin contact. The wine was then drained and pressed to barrel. The wine was racked and blended mid-way through the year and bottled after 20 months in barrel. Just 150 cases made. Transparent dark ruby. Pale rim. Complex nose suggestive of burnt warm stones – more mineral than fruity. Round fruit with a tangy finish and real undertow. Like the Franschhoek 2018 Cinsault , this is hugely distinctive. Brûlée impression and tastes more than a year older than the 2018 Cinsault from Franschhoek. A certain leatheriness of both flavour and texture. Quite mature. (JR)