2016 Shiraz The Laird
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Tasting notes
100% Shiraz from the unirrigated, five-acre Gnadenfrei vineyard planted in Marananga in 1958 that is hand-tended 'by a grower with a lifetime's experience on Western Barossa soils of very dark, heavy clay loam over red friable clay. Multiple picks at optimum ripeness between 19 February and 2 March' – the earliest-ever harvest. From a year refreshed by January rains. Aged for 36 months in casks coopered by Dominique Laurent of Nuits-St-Georges. No fining or filtration. Torbreck assure us this will last for 30 to 50 years! Black label rather than the usual white ones for Torbreck wines. Back label promises 'this vineyard is second to none in the Valley, perhaps even the world'! Almost black – certainly vintage port – colour. Intense, concentrated, almost porty nose with markedly more tannin on the finish than the Torbreck 2018s. Presumably this reflects the élevage more than the growing season. What a price! I think I have plebeian tastes as I would naturally go for a more accessible wine. Clearly fashioned to give Penfolds Grange a run for its money. Very long and spicy with a little oak in evidence as well as admirable freshness, but still a bit hot and dry on the end. (JR)
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
Torbreck's 2016 The Laird is just being released after its extended time in barrel. I'm still unconvinced by the élevage, as the wood seems to have the upper hand, marking the nose with scents of smoke, cedar, menthol and baking spices. Yes, there's ample underlying fruit—mulberries and Italian plums—but it all takes on a slightly dessert-like cast that's only partially balanced by lingering hints of black olives, licorice and caramelized meat on the extended finish. Give this another few years in bottle so the oak-imparted notes further meld with the fruit and form a more complete, harmonious whole.