2017 Charmes Chambertin
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The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru was tainted by TCA.
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Average Score
Neal Martin
Allen Meadows, Burghound
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The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from single parcel within the highest part of Mazoyères-Chambertin, in the top left-hand corner as you look at the vineyard from the RN74. It has a vivacious floral bouquet of red and black fruit infused with scents of pressed iris petals and violets. The palate is medium-bodied with quite chalky tannin and a fine bead of acidity. This is compact for a Charmes-Chambertin, conveying a sense of strictness toward the finish. It will require five years in bottle just to loosen its tie.
Arlaud noted that what I tasted may not be the final blend as a young vines cuvée which was included in my sample, may be eliminated and either declassified or sold. A background touch of wood can be found on the spicy and distinctly floral-suffused nose that is primarily composed of red currant and humus elements. I very much like the sense of underlying tension to the well-delineated if lighter flavors that exude a subtle minerality on the mildly dry and compact finish that comes up somewhat short. Eliminating the young vines would probably improve this.