2019 Ermitage Blanc de l'Oree

100% Marsanne from the lowest and oldest part of the hill of Hermitage (lieu-dit Les Murets). 14 months in Burgundy barrels. Very pale gold. Wonderful aroma that pulls you deep into the glass, nutty, lightly spice pears and an 'oily' minerality, opening up to almonds and green fruits. Deep and broad on the palate, the mineral/stony texture adding freshness to a full-bodied wine that has modest acidity. Chewy texture, cool but complex aftertaste. (JH)

Showing considerably better than it did the last time I tasted it, the 2019 Ermitage de l'Orée boasts notes of toasted grain and ripe, honeyed peaches. Full-bodied and expansive, it's opulent, richly textured and long, with waves of flavor echoing on the finish. Any bitter notes seem to have been seamlessly incorporated into the wine's impressive mouthfeel.

Moving to the three single vineyard Hermitage Blancs, these are all perfect wines yet offer distinct characters. The 2019 Ermitage De L’Orée comes from more limestone soils in the Les Murets lieu-dit, on the eastern side of the appellation and was brought up in 15% new demi-muids. It reveals a vivid gold hue to go with gorgeous honeyed peach, white currants, quince, crushed stone, and white flower-like aromas and flavors. This full-bodied white has terrific concentration, a rich, layered mouthfeel, beautiful acidity, and a finish that just won't quit. Offering more fat and opulence than the L'Ermite and more minerality than the Le Meal, this pinnacle Hermitage Blanc needs a year or three of bottle age, then should drink nicely for 5-7 years, at which point it's best forgotten in the cellar for another decade. It should last for 20-30 years.