2011 Bonnes Mares

(from 90-year-old vines; almost entirely from destemmed fruit): Bright, deep ruby. Knockout Chambolle perfume of blackberry, black raspberry, crushed rock, coffee, mocha and wild herbs, plus a whiff of gibier. As impressive in the mouth as it is on the nose, showing outstanding sappiness and soil-driven saline complexity to its flavors of raspberry, botanical herbs, smoke and minerals. Utterly palate-staining and unflagging on the back end: one really senses the pulpy, mellow, tiny grapes. Still, Laurent prefers his Clos de Beze today for its refinement.