2011 Quinta do Vale Meao Tinto

The 2011 Tinto (the flagship Estate wine) is a blend of 55% Touriga Nacional and 34% Touriga Franca, plus Tinta Barroca and Tinta Roriz (6% and 5%, respectively), all vinified separately and aged in French barriques, 80% new and 20% second-pass. It comes in at 14.5% alcohol. Just bottled in August, 2013, this was obviously raw and showing its oak too much when originally seen, so I thought I’d give it another try a few months later. It had “Wine of the Vintage” potential. While it is still quite unevolved (something that will not be cured for awhile), it is more settled now, doing a better job of pulling itself together. It is every bit as likely as I thought to fulfill its obviously great potential, but it’s proving that better now. This will never be the big, blockbuster style, in case you’re wondering. Winemaker Xito Olazabal once spoke to me about his wines being called “feminine.” Gender stereotypes aside, if you are looking for sweet and bombastic, look elsewhere. It is pointed, focused and relatively elegant in the mid-palate, while always retaining its crisp persistence and tension on the lingering finish. All it lacks now is some complexity -- and that will come in time, but only with cellaring. This is going to cover all the bases. It is probably the best Estate Tinto yet made here, but do yourself a favor and stick it in the cellar for another 4 or 5 years, even if, in theory, it is approachable younger. This has many stories to tell that are as yet untold, and it may yet be entitled to another uptick. There were 15,000 cases produced. Drink 2016-2033. Importer: Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY; tel: (914) 251-3216

Mainly Touriga Nacional on schist. Dark purplish crimson. Toasty and sweet. Liquorice and with more of a hole in the texture at the moment than the Meandro. Ambitious but needs time. (JR)