2010 Barolo Brunate Riserva

Lustrous mid ruby with orange tinges. Balsamic, sweet spice and cherry and earthy notes. Really burgundian in structure and with a super-elegant lightness on the palate. Compact and backward on the finish with bags of bitter laurel tannins. Very pretty but with surprising lightness for both La Morra and Marengo. (WS)

The 2010 Barolo Riserva Brunate is completely overwhelmed by French oak. Powerful and concentrated, the 2010 boasts considerable depth and just enough nuance to give me a glimmer of hope that things might one day come around, but I just don't see it happening. From this fruit Marco Marengo should be making one of the truly epic, iconic wines of La Morra.

(this was bottled with the other 2010 Barolos in July but will be held back a year and released as riserva): Good full, dark red. Dark cherry, sexy brown spices and truffle on the expressive nose. Dense, vinous and seamless, boasting lovely concentration to its red fruit, spice and truffle flavors. Very harmonious, delineated, youthfully austere wine with a bright, dry, savory finish offering noteworthy subtle complexity, sweet tannins and excellent length. This should evolve gracefully in bottle for at least 15 years.