2018 Le Difese

This is the entry-level wine from Tenuta San Guido that may (or may not) give us an idea of the fruit character to be found in next year's Bolgheri releases from the same vintage. A big production of 321,000 bottles, the 2018 Le Difese is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon brightened up with a quarter or a third Sangiovese. The wine opens to mid-weight intensity with some leathery or dried tobacco-like notes that give the wine a rather sultry or savory first impression. With a little extra prodding, it starts to offer plummy dark fruit and dried blackberry, something you can serve with a traditional pappardelle alle lepre.

Just bottled, the 2018 Le Difese is very pretty, and also the most refined vintage I can remember tasting here. Fresh and light on its feet, the 2018 is truly delicious. It is also the first vintage of this wine that really is in line with the house style. Having the ability to make this wine in the Bolgheri property rather than at a remote facility represents a major step up for San Guido.

First vintage 2002. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Sangiovese. Cabernet used is the remainder after blending Sassicaia and Guidalberto, plus some bought-in fruit. Sangiovese is also bought in, with the total non-estate fruit comprising around 50%. Bumptious, ripe red cherry and raspberry, with a lick of dried herb, old leather and a nutty touch, suggesting a forward fruity wine, but the palate is actually leaner than that. Fresh and mid weight. Fair length. (TJ)