2018 Bockenauer Felseneck Spatlese Goldkapsel
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Tasting notes
As usual, this issues from the estate’s oldest Felseneck vines. An estate-typical reductive note of struck flint and bruised lime peel is allied to aromas of ripe kiwi and white peach, along with hints of green herbs that are transformed into a cooling sense of infusion on the lusciously fruited, silken-textured and buoyant palate. For all of its richness, this finishes with near-rapier penetration, tongue-tingling vibrancy and transparency to underlying wet stone.
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
James Suckling
More reviews and scores
The 2018 Felseneck Riesling Spätlese Goldkapsel is clear, precise and still reductive on the nose. The palate is clear, fresh and precise, salty and pure, with lush and round but stimulating fruit and remarkable finesse and elegance. This is an excellent Spätlese, but it needs some years to reveal all its talents. 7.5% alcohol. Tasted in October 2019 (AP 14 19).
Thereâs quite a strong, dark-stone character to this selection from older vines, which are connected deeper into the slate terroir. Again, the reductive sweet spot has been struck clean and the ripe white peaches and limes are scintillatingly deep, yet super elegant. Fine acidity and plenty of spice. So long, true and unwavering. Superb! Drink or hold.
Tank sample. Smoky, reductive sulphur- or fementation-related compounds that are typical of this producer but not overdone. Green fruits, herbs and a touch of orange zest. Beautifully fresh and embryonic. The sweetness perfectly balanced by racy, pristine acidity. Long, precise, masterful. GV (JH)