2011 Vargellas Vinha Velha
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The 2011 Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha Vintage Port is a typical field blend aged in used French oak vats. It comes in with 105 grams per liter of residual sugar. The youngest, fleshiest and fullest (perhaps because it is the youngest) of this vertical except for the unbottled 2017, this is also one of the most delicious. The fruit is so delectable that, at first, you don't notice how much pure power it has. Then, it's gorgeously textured, precise, focused and penetrating. This Vinha Velha is not ready, of course, but it is already more approachable and expressive than the 2009, as well as more generous. The fruit is simply more vivid. From the aromatics, with touches of eucalyptus, to the subtly rich feel, this is brilliant. Is it the best of the vertical? At the moment, it is not even close, but it is also the youngest and most immature of the bottled wines. In fruit, structure and aromatics, it has all the components for greatness. This doesn't show the best today, but it's worth betting on it for the long haul.
Critic scores
Average Score
The Wine Advocate
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
From vines planted in 1908 and 1910. Just 300 cases made. One bottle from four vines (cf one vine). Very dark indeed. Very luscious and yet with masses of tannins. Still very youthful. Full of exuberance and potential. Still tense and crammed in, but it opens out in the most gorgeous, floral-building palate. This is going to be great. (JR)
Actually not as deep purple as some. More deep crimson. Complex and wild nose, sort of biodynamic kind of profile. There's something burgundian and devil-may-care about this wine. It's lovely for drinking already. How on earth are they going to persuade people to hang on to it?? The sort of singer who doesn't obey any rules; just belts it out and doesn’t mind whether the orchestra keeps up or not. Transparent and very distinctive. I'm tempted to give a crazy drinking window… (JR)
As a reminder, the Vinha Vilha is a selection of old vine fruit from the terraces of Polverinho and Renova do Armazem. Comparing it directly with the Taylor’s, there is even more complexity and volume on the nose, with black currant, dark plum and a more accentuated crushed stone aroma that lends it wonderful terroir expression. Like the Fonseca, it develops compelling marine scents after 30-40 minutes in the glass, like stepping over rock pools when you were a kid. The palate is medium-bodied with sumptuous, sensual ripe tannins that layer the mouth. There is a palpable sense of harmony and composure to this Vinha Velha and there is a lot of horsepower, more so than the Taylor’s, on the multi-dimensional finish. The intensity of fruit means that it does not quite have the same degree of tension as the Taylor’s, but the depth and breadth of this young Port suggests it will be a seriously long-term fortified wine. Tasted May 2013.<br />