2015 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Auslese

Resulting entirely from the harvest’s first day of picking, this features scents and flavors of northern fruit as opposed to the tropicals one generally expects from Juffer-Sonnenuhr in a ripe vintage. Piquantly pit-tinged white peach and Rainier cherry are laced with animating fresh lime and saliva-liberating salinity in a performance that is bracing on the nose, then invigorates and refreshes. There are successful Eisweine happy to boast this Auslese’s 11.4 grams of acidity, which manages to convey energy and blazing brightness without being awkwardly tart or edgy. On the long finish, the saline savor, remarkable for an Auslese from at least one-third botrytized berries, turns into a mouthwatering mineral-animal mélange akin to shrimp-shell reduction.