2018 Alvarinho Soalheiro

The 2018 Alvarinho, the so-called unoaked "classico," is dry (three grams of residual sugar as against 6.1 grams of total acidity) and comes in at 12.5% alcohol. A little understated this year, this shows ripe fruit, flavor and a surprisingly long finish as it airs out. That said, it seems to be a bit more in the middle of the road this year. We'll see how this progresses—they often develop well. There were about 100,000 bottles sourced from 25-year-old vines.