2018 Pure Santorini Assyrtiko
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Tasting notes
The 2018 Assyrtiko, the regular Santorini, although in a fairly big bottle these days, is unoaked, dry (1.6 grams of residual sugar, 6.92 of total acidity) and comes in at 13.5% alcohol. This is a blend from mainly Messaria, Karterados, Pyrgos, Megalochori and Akrotiri. It is beautifully structured and feels more concentrated than one would think. There's a slight reductive hint, but this fills the mouth well and seems bigger than it is on paper. There is a tight and relatively tense finish. The reductive nuance is mostly pulled in with air and warmth. It certainly has the stuffing to hold up to foods. The winery suggests that it can last for a decade, which seems about right. It might do better, if well stored. As between this and its 2019 sibling this issue, I'd take the 2019—for the moment. That's a sexier wine. I won't be surprised if this is the winner in a few years.
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Mark Squires
More reviews and scores
From 2018 this comprises fruit all from old vines (120 years) – and all own vines. Unoaked. Bottled early April. It used to be called just Argyros Santorini Assyrtiko but now it is exclusively old vines so it is labelled Estate. Matthew Argyros thinks this is the best vintage so far though it is very young now. Less time on the lees than in the past with the aim of increasing the fruitiness. Mineral smoky nose, bone dry, tight and crisp but with great power, more lime than lemon. Very young. Gently chewy, firm. Smells a little ‘volcanic’ in that smoky mineral character. Lots of fruit concentration and still quite primary. Great length and much more complexity to come. (JH)