2017 Donnhoff QbA

This year, fruit from the Niederhäuser Klamm joins that of Oberhausen (predominantly Leistenberg) in this very subtly sweet cuvée. Niederhäuser Klamm is perhaps one reason why this bottling has seldom if ever been more delightfully expressive. Not unusual with this bottling, there is fresh apple, pear and quince on the nose that reminds me slightly of Chenin Blanc, as do the freesia, honeysuckle and wisteria perfumes that are more prominent in the inner-mouth. The palate is polished and succulently fruity, with nips of lime peel, zesty pink grapefruit, cress and stone serving for delightful invigoration that lasts into a buoyant, lusciously-sustained and consummately refreshing finish. (It’s worth once again mentioning that here is one of those curious cases at a prestigious German address where there is an impeccably-balanced, off-dry Gutsriesling that stands alone stylistically, all of the estate’s other wines being either legally dry or unabashedly sweet.)