2010 Vertigo 22 months

Booker’s 2010 Vertigo 22 wraps around the palate with dark red fruit, flowers, mint and spices. The extra time in barrel has given the Vertigo 22 a dimension of seamlessness and total integration the regular bottling doesn’t have. At the same time, some of the vibrancy and pure energy of the regular Vertigo has been dampened ever so slightly. Readers will find much to admire in both. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Behind Eric Jensen’s outgoing, boisterous personality lies the mind of one of the most thoughtful and introspective winemakers in Paso Robles. An unending drive for perfection means Jensen is satisfied with nothing but the very best. Over the last few years, that has led to some serious rethinking in the vineyards and cellar. Today, the wines are more polished than they have ever been. I have also included notes on the ‘22’ series of wines that spend a few extra months in barrel. The handful of 2011s I tasted were delicate, perfumed and quite pretty, but with less depth and structure than either the 2009s or the 2010s. One day, when the vineyards of Westside Paso Robles are fully understood, I have little doubt Booker will occupy a place at or near the top. Eric Jensen’s relentless passion and commitment for excellence make Booker the single most exciting emerging property in Paso Robles. Tel. (805) 237-7367, www.bookerwines.com