NV Rene Geoffrey Expression Brut
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Tasting notes
Pouring a bright straw color, the NV Champagne Premier Cru Cumières Expression Extra Brut is 50% from their perpetual reserve and the rest from 2021, with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Meunier. (The perpetual reserve started in 1970.) I like the tension this wine presents, with a rounded, airy mousse that keeps it light on its feet and medium body, offering a pithy texture and notes of fresh redcurrants, orange peel, and a chalky finish. It’s approachable now, though, and should have no issues aging and showing its best over the next 10 years. Drink 2025-2035. 3 grams per liter dosage, disgorged March 2025. All of Geoffroy’s vineyards are within Cumières, and the layout is essentially an amphitheater with only a 400-meter difference between the east and the west of their parcels. The Chardonnay lies on the shoulders of the village, and the Meunier is on the top, where there are more sandy soils close to the forest. In the vineyards, they work biodynamically, and in general, the wines do not go through malolactic fermentation. The wines for this report were tasted at the domaine along with Sacha Geoffroy, who came back to the family business in 2024.
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Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Based on the 2020 vintage vinified in enameled vats, Geoffroy’s NV Brut Expression is complemented by a 50% perpetual reserve component stored in concrete. Sourced from a mosaic of parcels across Cumières and Hautvillers, it is a blend of 45% Pinot Noir, 35% Pinot Meunier and 20% Chardonnay. The wine bursts from the glass with vibrant aromas of green apple and quince interwoven with notes of gooseberry. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, bright and linear, marked by piercing acidity and a persistent, lemon-inflected finish, leaving a lingering impression. This cuvée was disgorged in September 2024 with a dosage of 3.5 grams per liter.
A bright yellow hue, the NV Champagne 1er Cru Expression Brut is from the 2020 vintage but includes perpetual reserve wines going back to 1970. The nose displays notes of nectarine, golden apples, hay, and a hint of nuttiness or bread. Medium-bodied, with good balance on the palate, it’s quite harmonious and very tasty all around, with a fluffy mousse, notes of orange citrus, and a clean, savory finish. It’s quite approachable and will drink well now or over the coming 5-7 years. 5 grams per liter dosage.
The NV Champagne Expression Brut is fresh and delicately fragrant with brioche, white flowers, and red fruit. The palate is inviting and dry, with a nice backbone of refreshing acidity. This is a wonderful first showing for the range that can stand alone or at the table and will hold up over the next 6-10 years. A killer value.