2017 Cockburn
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Dry, hot and classic year. According to winemaker Charles Symington, Cockburn's was once – and up to the end of the 1950s – one of the most prestigious port brands, selling for some of the highest prices, as seen in the ledgers of Christie's auctions. But lost its way in the 1970s and 1980s. This is mostly from their Quinta dos Canais vineyard (acquired by SFE in 2006, before they acquired the Cockburn's name in 2010). The blend includes mainly Touriga Nacional plus Touriga Franca and Sousão. All the parcels are south-facing. Initial impression is the Douro esteva aroma (rock rose) entwined with a classic, elegantly dark, Douro character. Silky and dry, super-elegant especially in the texture, and the wine has such a long dry finish. Residual sugar is around 100 g/l and you do get a slight sweet-sour kick on the finish. (JH)
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Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
The 2017 Vintage Port is a blend of 52% Touriga Nacional, 30% Touriga Franca and small portions of Sousão and Alicante Bouschet bottled about a month before this tasting after 18 months in seasoned vats. However, I actually tasted a pre-bottling sample because there was some fear of bottling shock. This is sourced from south-facing vineyards in Douro Superior that have a higher proportion of Touriga Nacional. It comes in with 107 grams of residual sugar. The terroir and the vintage combine to make this a wine that seems at the moment a bit bigger than Dow's this year. Unlike in 2015, however, it also maintains its balance well. This has velvet for texture, fine aromatics and a long finish, but it is always elegant, never jammy. It is still concentrated, and aeration proves how well it can evolve. It finishes with some pop and power, but it will be approachable relatively young. Relatively is the key word there, as it shows plenty of power. Like the Warre's, a Symington sibling this issue, it seems to be a cut above this year, the best in the brand for a while, and superior to both the 2016 and 2015. It is able to hold up to some of its more famous siblings in the Symington stable this issue. There were 2,500 cases produced.
The 2017 Cockburn’s Vintage Port, picked from August 28, comes mainly from Quinta dos Canais (74% of the blend.) It sports an iridescent purple hue. It has an irresistible nose with black plum, raisin, vanilla and blackcurrant, super-concentrated but managing to maintain superb delineation. The palate is medium-bodied and full of tension. I must admit to being shocked how tense and agile this Cockburn’s is showing. It is a live-wire young Port, brimming over with energy and bridle and with an almost citrus-fresh finish that leaves the mouth tingling. The name might be synonymous with the more commercial end of Port, however, recent vintages testify a fortified wine that should be taken very seriously. Superb. Total production is 2,500 cases.
2,500 cases which is 8% of Cockburn’s total vineyard production. Key to Cockburn’s are the vineyards at Quinta dos Canais and its high proportion of Touriga Nacional. Just 246 mm of rain at Canais and record-breaking spring temperatures. Yields were one-third below the 10-year average. Quinta dos Canais 74%, Quinta do Vale Coelho 18%, Quinta do Cachão do Arnozelo 8%. Touriga Nacional 52% (800 g/vine), Touriga Franca 30% (670 g/vine), Sousão 10% (1.3 kg/vine), Alicante Bouschet 8%. TA 4.57 g/l, Baumé 3.5. Bottled May 2019. Black core with narrow purple rim. Much more stony and mineral first impression compared with the Dow's and Warre's but no lack of that wild black fruit and, as it opens, the floral character that was so strong on the Stone Terraces. Even with the floral notes this is more sober and savoury on the nose with a rich dark-fruit intensity on the palate. Power and immense length emerge underneath that black, black fruit. Lots of pepper and spice on the finish. Tannins are dense and spicy but polished – lovely texture. (JH)