2017 Morey St Denis Les Chaffots

The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Chaffots 1er Cru shows the stem addition (around 60% to 70% whole bunches) on the nose, and it is simpatico with the brambly red berry fruit. The medium-bodied palate offers brown spices, bay leaf and black tea infusing the red berry fruit. This is very expressive of its terroir and displays a lovely bitter cherry note on the finish. Excellent.

Just south of Monts Luisants, high up above the village on the long strip above Clos de la Roche. Thinner soils than a village wine. Haisma has been making this since 2012. 75% whole bunch. This vineyard taught him about Burgundy – that the wine is the vineyard. He is just a steward. Tank sample. This has wonderful archetypal Morey perfume: peppery and lightly floral (more peony than roses) and crushed rocks. Fragrant and refined. Not showy. Then that peppery quality on the palate and the gentle scent and finest of tannins. It’s both sober and scented. A beauty. (JH)