2008 Pommard 1er Cru

From Arvelets – high up in the Grande Combe behind the village itself – and a bit of Chanlins, Pacalet’s 2008 Pommard 1er Cru is scented and flavored with fresh cherry, redcurrant, hibiscus, rose hip, and mineral salts; displays a delicate frame and a flattering tenderness of fruit and texture without sacrificing brightness and vivacity; and finishes long, buoyant, positively refreshing, and transparent to chalky, peaty, and marrowy nuances. I envision it being worth following for the better part of a decade, but would favor drinking most of it sooner and some right away because – for those not turned-off by its lightness and brightness or convinced they are inappropriate for a Pommard – this is already delightful. Philippe Pacalet (for further details on whose unorthodox methods, readers are encouraged to consult my report in issue 171) held fast in the 2007 and 2008 vintages to his habits of rejecting sorting tables (selection the pickers’ responsibility, and a heavy one in these instances); fermenting with stems and whole clusters (without doubt contributory to the floral dimension most Pacalet wines share); and adding little or no sulfur during the elevage. Malo-lactic conversion in both vintages proceeded according to his usual schedule (over by early Spring), a contrast in 2008 with most of his fellow Burgundian vignerons that he insists is partly due to those low sulfur levels. Pacalet considers his 2008s – which are notably light in color, and which he compares with 2001s – very much for cellaring, though I found them enormously appealing already. Few exceed 12.5% finished alcohol, and all were bottled between December and February. (Regrettably, I was not able to taste any of the 2007s – nor, indeed, all of the 2008s – from this address.) As always, it bears mentioning that due to their low-sulfur as well as unfiltered nature, Pacalet wines should only be cellared by those who can do so in ideal conditions. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191