2011 Primus Quinta Da Pellada

The 2011 Primus Quinta da Pellada is mostly an old vines field blend with everything from Verdelho and Terrantez to Bical, although Castro says that the wine is dominated by Encruzado, the region’s familiar white grape. As seems quite typical for Castro’s style with this bottling, it is a wine of remarkable elegance, subtle but persistent. As I’ve learned, though, this is something worth sitting with and that you have to sit with. When I first saw it in Portugal, I thought it was very fine, but a bit underwhelming. After a second look in the USA, with a few more months in the bottle and time to play with it, I began to realize how very fine it was. Wonderfully fresh, with a mid-palate that has now fleshed out and shows more fullness than was first apparent, it has remarkable texture on the palate. It is surprisingly viscous in its youth and quite mouth coating. While remaining elegant, it seems to have remarkable concentration in fruit. There is a tinge of oak, but that integrates quite well and quickly. This is unevolved and was unreleased when tasted. It is a wine that can grow on you and age. Indeed, Castro says that he would prefer to release the wine late around 5 years from vintage date if he could afford to hold it back. I don’t think that is necessary – it drinks beautifully now. He is completely right, though, that it can age and will improve with cellaring. If this evolves as I think it will – and at the moment, I have relatively little doubt – it will be brilliant. Drink now-2020. My visits to Castro always produce some older gems; so, too, this year as well. But this year the most interesting wine was not finalized and had no name at the time, just designated as “2010 TN100,” meaning a very old vines Touriga Nacional with some juice from 100+ year old vines. It has become the “Golden Carrocel” – a somewhat different iteration of Castro’s top of the line Carrocel bottling. The potential for this vintage and even more so for the brand seems rather considerable. This issue generally features Castro’s top wines – note that he does have lower cost items as well. As always, Castro’s wines differ somewhat in nomenclature. Most have his name prominently displayed somewhere, but some vary and list principally Quinta da Pellada, his famed property. For convenience and consistent with how they are treated, they are all grouped here. Castro is, of course, one of Portugal’s most interesting producers, making hand crafted wines with an attention to detail. While there is a lower end to the lineup that is not in this issue, the wines here show that craftsmanship—but also come with some pretty prices that will put most out of the reach of typical consumers. Some of the lower end values reviewed in other issues can be quite good, too, so take note. Importers: Laurel Importers, Bristol, RI; tel. (401) 396-9661; Wine Wise, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 524-2270; IPO Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 243-9463