2017 Wintricher Ohligsberg Spatlese 18 18

Grapefruit and mirabelle are garlanded in mint on the nose and the satiny, concentrated yet delicate palate. There is a faint suggestion of dried fruit, though accompanied by bright juiciness, and the piquancy of seed, pit and zest is subtly and stimulatingly integrated into the folds of fruit. The lilting, long-lasting finish is a model of purity, offering innervating tang and consummate refreshment. Incidentally, this was picked at 85 Oechsle, a must weight significantly lower than that which nowadays informs most top Mosel growers’ Kabinetts. That low must weight explains how a Spätlese can harbor just 7% alcohol yet not be overloaded with residual sugar.