2010 Rioja Lanzaga

The 2010 Lanzaga from vineyards in Lanciego is the 12th vintage for this brand, but there was a big change in 2008 when they built their new winery. All wines are fermented in concrete and aged in foudre and barrique. For Telmo, the tiny Lanciego is the last Mediterranean village in Rioja Alavesa, the last one to have olive trees as well as the first Atlantic one where the crop is cereal, so it has a complexity of climate and a variety of red soils with sand underneath (approx one meter) and then the pure calcite that produces very elegant and complex wines. The 2010 version of Lanzaga is aromatically very pure and complex, with fine, polished tannins, some austerity and a strong personality. It develops some fennel, licorice and aniseed aromas, displaying its Mediterranean side with time, while it was truly Atlantic when uncorked. The nose is spectacular after an hour in the glass, so I’d open and decant it in advance if you are planning to drink it in the short term. 40,000 bottles were produced. Drink 2014-2020. Telmo Rodriguez and his partner Pablo Eguzkiza produced some exceptional wines in 2010, which is no surprise, as they have been going from strength to strength in the last few years. The surprise is a new single vineyard bottling from Rioja; I think they have finally fulfilled their dream (I remember hearing this from Telmo 15 years ago) to have the privilege to own some exceptional vineyards and produce small quantities of wines from them. They now have As Caborcas in Valdeorras, Las Beatas in Rioja, and others will come from Ribera del Duero, from Cebreros. Some exciting wines are in the pipeline. Imported by Vintus Wine, Pleasantville NY; tel. (914) 769-3000; vintuswines.com