2017 Morey St Denis

The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis Village comes from two parcels on hard Comblanchien limestone in Bidaude and Rue de Vergy, the latter a 0.70-hectare plot purchased in 2018. This is completely de-stemmed. The nose of brambly black fruit is a little disjointed at first, but charming. The one-third new oak is neatly integrated (although some of the old barrels impart a small reduction). The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, a little soft on the entry but firming up toward the second half. Sea salt and a pinch of black pepper tincture the dark berry fruit. Enjoy this over the next five to eight years.

Reduction presently dominates the underlying fruit. More interesting are the sleek yet plump and fleshy medium-bodied flavors that exude a discreet minerality onto the solidly complex and persistent finish. This is lovely and a wine that should provide much pleasure young but also reward mid-term cellaring.

Aromas of smoky red berry fruit, cassis, grilled meat, espresso and cinnamon introduce the 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis Village, a medium-bodied, satiny wine with melting tannins and juicy acids that isn't especially deep or concentrated. It will drink well in its youth.