2017 Chablis Les Clos

Revisiting Fèvre's 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos six months later, as I was completing this report, I was also inclined to upgrade my score, as the wine is bouncing back from its recent bottling with a vengeance. Its pure and charming bouquet of ripe citrus fruits, crisp yellow apples, beeswax and spring flowers is now complemented by classy nuances of oyster shell and warm bread; and on the palate, the wine remains full-bodied, ample and satiny-textured, with an enveloping core of fruit, ripe but succulent acids and a long, precise and delicately chalky finish, but its impressive structuring extract and depth of concentration are even more apparent. In short, don't miss this superb effort.

This is in stunning form in 2017, showcasing the kind of symphonic complexity of primary fruit and effortless power that makes it so revered. Limes and lemons, white and yellow peaches, some apples and shaved fennel, fresh chalk and fresh flowers, too. The palate has such seamless and unwavering linearity, driven by contained acidity that delivers a wake of fleshy, white-peach, lime and lemon-curd flavor. So long, seamless and fresh. This is an exceptional Clos. Drink or hold.

Fairly understated on the nose. Some piquant spice on the palate, as well as standard apple fruit, but this seems to be missing the complexity of grand cru Chablis. (RH)