2016 Clos Vougeot

A much earthier blend offers up notes of plum and dark berries along with wisps of wood and spice. As one would reasonably expect there is more volume and power but a good deal less refinement to the broad-shouldered flavors that possess an attractive mid-palate texture that contrasts markedly with the austere, backward and very serious finish. A classically styled and excellent Clos de Vougeot that is clearly built-to-age. Drink 2031+

(from a single unfrosted parcel on the mid-slope on the Vosne-Romanée side, the yield was 35 hectoliters per hectare in 2016): Dark red with ruby highlights. The nose displays a rather cool aspect as well as some spicy oak to the aromas of black cherry, licorice and botanical herbs. Densely packed and very ripe but a bit disorganized in the early going, even brutal, with its medicinal cassis, black cherry, herb and bitter chocolate flavors enlivened by pungent minerality. Today the tannins come across as a bit tough and drying. This wine finished its malolactic fermentation very late and Liger-Belair told me that he may bottle it last, as he did with the 2015 Clos Vougeot.