2015 Riesling St Nikolaus Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Intensely pip- and pit-inflected lime, grapefruit and Mirabelle are signaled already in the head-turning, intense nose, accompanied by musky hints of peony and narcissus. On the palate, the glowing, gripping intensity of pip and pit is complemented by glycerol-richness, creaminess of texture and a strikingly briny, umami-rich, saliva-inducing savor that puts me in mind a scent of anchovies. Alkaline and stony notes add to the mineral complexity of a finish that perpetuates this bottling’s uncanny alliance of jabbing piquancy and enormous richness. “This is our site with the earliest flowering,” notes Kühn, “yet one in which we can often postpone harvest, so that the total hang time is unusually long.”
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
David Schildknecht, Vinous
More reviews and scores
NB vintage. Great ripeness of fruit, fumy, waxy and stony notes strive for complexity, a hint of butterscotch whispers far more than sweet nothings. On the palate, this seems to be Kühn’s most mineral Grosses Gewächs, but this expression is totally integrated into a superb balance of juicy acidity, generous exotic fruit and fresh, green herbal elements, the herbaceous element of sappy green leaves and a piquant peel note adding further intrigue. Did I mention exotic fruit? (MS)