2014 Marienburg Riesling Rothenpfad Reserve GG
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Tasting notes
Knowing that his young Grosse Gewächse can be very challenging to taste immediately after release, with their rocky minerality, Clemens Busch always throws in an advanced vintage just to show us where the journey might be going. The nose of the 2014 Rothenpfad Grosses Gewächse is already showing a hint of the fumy expression of kerosene that is highly sought after by lovers of mature Riesling, yet profoundly misunderstood by the uninitiated. Another misunderstanding is waiting around the corner, because where some might expect fruit they will find minerality. A rich texture eases the flow across the palate. Maybe there is a hint of grapefruit, but it comes with notes of pith and kernel. Riesling for beginners it is not. (MS)
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Average Score
Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
From 85-year-old vines, Busch's 2014 Riesling GG Rothenpfad opens with a refined yet deep and intense bouquet that displays dusty/smoky aromas of crushed stones along with white fruits, almonds and lemon flavors. Full-bodied, round and intense on the palate, this is very well concentrated and structured Riesling with a clear aroma and a long and piquant, lovely salty and tension-filled finish with excellent terroir expression. This has a great combination of salt and fruit, of minerals and texture. This is a very convincing and filigreed 2014 Mosel Riesling, and it is so delicate and less opulent than it used to be in other vintages. Clemens Busch says it is the minerality that makes his wines leaner in 2014, especially the wines from the Rothenpfad (including the "vom roten Schiefer").
Scents of moss suggest more development than one would expect, but behind that come intimations of bright citrus. Lemony-fresh and cheek-tugging, this wine’s palate presence is of a take-no-prisoners sort. Pithy, piquant and black-tea-smoky, the penetrating finish is a bit austere, but its array of stony, saline, and alkaline notes is fascinating and its lemony brightness ultra-refreshing.
Bitter, leafy fruit and petrol aromas. Modest concentration but good persistence. Subtle fragrance on the finish – all in all a wine of humility but enjoyability. (RH)