NV Quinta do Mourao S. Leonardo White 20 Years

The NV 20 Year Old White Port São Leonardo is a field blend of grapes like Viosinho, Codega de Larinho, Cerceal and Malvasia. It was bottled in 2019 with a bar-top cork and 170 grams of residual sugar. This is a pretty pricey 20 Year (about 50 euros retail in Portugal), so it really needs to excel. It does, but it is also stylistically different than most 20 Year Whites, a bit too Tawny-like in style. Then, it is a little too sugary around the edges. It redeems itself with a remarkably spicy finish. It's a little piquant, and then the sugar kicks in again. This is sensational in some ways, and in others it is an odd duck. If you like the style, you'll be very impressed.