2016 Colome Autentico Malbec

(from 100+-year-old vines planted at 2,300 meters; made without oak): Saturated bright ruby. Pungent, pure, primary aromas of candied blackberry, black cherry, cassis, bitter chocolate and spices; conveys a superripe, even slightly figgy hint of thick, sun-drenched skins without loss of focus. Just as backward on the palate, with its kirsch , cassis and dark chocolate flavors complicated by violet and mineral components; shows increasing creaminess and depth with time in the glass without losing its penetrating quality. Finishes with firm tongue-dusting, well-buffered tannins and slowly mounting length. Some outstanding 2016 reds were made a world away in Uco Valley, but very few of them can match this classically dry Salta wine for texture. I give this an edge over its 2015 sibling for its more obvious definition and stronger impression of acidity. I love the "rawness" of this wine and its purity and complexity.