2009 Batuta Tinto

The 2009 BATUTA is an interesting Batuta in this big vintage, somehow retaining its typically elegant sensibilities and potential complexity, two features that I greatly admire in it. Dirk Niepoort attributed that elegance to its high altitude location, which maintains its freshness and keeps it more refined. I've been loving Redoma more lately, but this seems to me to be the pick of the red litter from Niepoort this year, combining well integrated, subtle power with sunny freshness. Both when tasted in Douro and retasted in the USA, it was my favorite of the new releases. I think this will age gracefully and acquire complexity in the cellar. Seemingly approachable now, it is still quite primary and it could use a year or three to settle down, show a little more complexity and come together. I think it will show its stuff in a few years and that it has more upside than most of the new releases. Drink 2013-2024. Niepoort's output, largely from old vines and high altitude, always has a certain refinement and elegance in common, even in the biggest vintages. It is an interesting aspect of this warm weather wine region. In 2009, a big vintage for most of the rest of the region, the reds seem generally restrained and quite crisp, a little eccentric compared to the typical Douro output in this year. Normally, I feel Niepoort does extremely well in the bigger vintages. This year, I am less sure. Importers: Martine's Wines, Inc., Novato, CA.; tel: (415) 883-0400; except in New York/New Jersey: Eric Solomon, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565.