2014 Cloudburst Cabernet Sauvignon

Eleven years old, sliding into tertiary with a skip of bright fruit and an enticing edge of leather, tar, grilled caramel, incense. Has maintained energy and grip even while the edges have softened and melted, and you can really see how special these wines are. Will Berliner owner and winemaker. This wine is not being released through the négociant system with the rest of the September wines, but was tasted at the same time.

The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon is aromatic and fresh, layered with black cherry, star anise, raspberry pip, scraped vanilla pod and chinotto. The wine has a sweetness to it layered alongside the cassis and bramble. This has purity and finesse, although the oak does still show through. I'd add that the fruit is very fresh and is aging slowly, so there is time for the oak to ameliorate further, which I view to be a good thing. Lovely. Sealed under screw cap.

Deep, shimmering ruby. A complex bouquet evokes fresh dark fruit, exotic spices, incense and candied flowers, along with hints of mocha, cured tobacco and candied licorice. Stains the palate with sappy black and blue fruit preserve, spicecake and violet pastille flavors supported by a spine of juicy acidity. Concentrated, finely delineated and energetic on the finish, which shows powerful thrust and polished tannins that add subtle closing grip.