1995 Chianti Classico Bellavista Gran Selezione

The 1995 Chianti Classico Vigneto Bellavista is breathtaking. Today it remains a baby. Pallanti calls the 1995 ‘jammy’ but I don’t really see that. Yes, the fruit is voluptuous, but it is also balanced by healthy acidity and veins of underlying minerality that keep the wine vibrant. The 1995 is the product of a year with almost no summer until late September. The harvest took place on October 20, exceedingly late by present-day standards. Today the 1995 boasts dazzling power, richness and opulence, but without any heaviness or excess weight. This is a dazzling showing. Readers who own the 1995 can look forward to another 10-15 years of fabulous drinking. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. This vertical of Castello di Ama’s flagship Chianti Classico Vigneto Bellavista was one of the more remarkable tastings I have ever had the privilege of participating in. From his very first vintage, 1982, Marco Pallanti was clearly onto something big. Readers still lucky enough to own that wine are in for a real treat. The single-vineyard Bellavista is 80% Sangiovese and 20% Malvasia Nera, a combination of indigenous grapes that works beautifully. The early vintages included a dollop of Canaiolo that was planted in the vineyard up until 1988, when it was ripped out in favor of the Merlot that would go on to produce L’Apparita. I also tasted the 2011 Bellavista in barrel, the first since 2007, and a year that it resembles from a stylistic standpoint. Castello di Ama Chianti Classico Bellavista Key Points: 1. 80% Sangiovese/20% Malvasia Nera aged in French oak barrels 2. Made from Ama’s Bellavista vineyard, a high-altitude plot in Castellina 3. A powerful, intense Chianti Classico 4. Aging potential: 20-30 years

Light ruby. Light treacly lively stuff that has lasted well but I find it difficult to justify the price. It certainly proves that the best Chiantis have a long life, but should they really cost this much? (Should red bordeaux cost this much? Discuss.) Bit dusty on the end. Transparent and lovely but so delicate that it needs careful food matching – a creamy veal dish? Admirably persistent. (JR)