2012 Barolo Cannubi

The 2012 Barolo Cannubi is shaping up to be magnificent. Next to the other 2012s, all of which play across a single dimension, the Cannubi stands out because of its creamy, multidimensional personality. Suave, silky tannins reinforce that impression. Like all of the 2012s here, the Cannubi is not a big wine, but it shows remarkable finesse. The Cannubi also has a bit more tannic bite on the finish, which is probably a combination of the manual punchdowns used here and traces of green tannin from the hail damage. Knock out aromatics, fine tannins and veins of supporting, saline-infused minerality all leave a lasting impression. The 2012 saw four days on the skins, a bit less than the other Barolos. More importantly, it is a testament to what a quality-obsessed grower can achieve in a year with plenty of challenges.

This is the second year that this wine is produce. It replaces the celebrated Barolo Brunate that was discontinued because Elio Altare lost his lease on that vineyard. The 2012 Barolo Cannubi is characterized by a firm tannic structure that leaves its impact on the palate. That firm structure is enhanced by bright cherry fruit, tar, cola and licorice. The Cannubi cru suffered damage in 2012 with two important hailstorms during the summer. Elio Altare got his anti-hail nets up after the first storm and was protected by the time the second one hit. I'd put this wine aside for a few extra years to allow that tannin to fully integrate. Jun 2016, www.robertparker.com