2012 Chassagne Montrachet Les Caillerets

The 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Cailleret is similar to the Benoites: taciturn at this stage, and perhaps needing to show the mineral core that this climat is known for. Still, it begins to unfurl in the glass, so I remain optimistic. The palate is nicely balanced with pretty green apple, lime and hazelnut notes, the acidity nicely judged, the finish conservative but clean and fresh. It would benefit from a little more persistency but it is well-made. A hole had opened up in my itinerary when Philippe Colin had to cancel our rendezvous, (nothing personal – his 2012s had had to be racked and were not in representative condition.) What to do before my 5 p.m. meeting with Olivier Lamy? Walking back from Domaine Alain Chavy I popped my head round the door to see if Jean-Michel Charton was (a) there and (b)willing to show me his 2012s. As luck would have it, I was able to spend a profitable 90 minutes tasting through his whites. His wines have tended to be a little underrated out there in the market place. I have had more time for them than others and the 2012s attest to a producer that is improving with every passing vintage. Importer: Winebow, New York, NY; Tel: (212) 255-9414; Fax: (212) 633-2372. www.winebow.com

The 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Cailleret is similar to the Benoites: taciturn at this stage, and perhaps needing to show the mineral core that this climat is known for. Still, it begins to unfurl in the glass, so I remain optimistic. The palate is nicely balanced with pretty green apple, lime and hazelnut notes, the acidity nicely judged, the finish conservative but clean and fresh. It would benefit from a little more persistency but it is well-made. Dec 2013, www.robertparker.com