2010 Colore del Testamatta

One-third each Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Colorino. A great vintage in Tuscany, although the prospects initially didn’t look good. A cold winter and very wet spring, preceded a generally cool growing season. Intense heat in July helped the vines to catch up a bit but the harvest was much later than normal. Very low yields – on average 600 g per vine. Fine and restrained on the palate, this is drinking beautifully now. Youthful vibrant fruit characters have subsided, to be replaced by more savoury flavours supported by elegant tannins. There is a lovely balance between weight, acidity and concentration. Will drink very well for at least another decade. (AH)

This was a late harvest and most growers struggled to reach full ripeness. Many, including Graetz, green-harvested severely, and the resulting wines - from healthy grapes - were muscular and intense. This displays a dense and smoky nose, with cherry and blackberry aromas. It's rich, plump and super-concentrated with huge but ripe tannins. Its power and structure mean that it could still benefit from more bottle-age and it should age effortlessly. Long chocolatey finish.

Linear drive to this medium-bodied wine now, offering dark berries, mushrooms and some flowers and spices. Tight and racy. Drink or hold.