2015 Cockburn

The 2015 Vintage Port is mostly a (Douro Superior) blend of Touriga Franca 41% and Touriga Nacional 37%, with old vines, Sousão and Alicante Bouschet making up the rest. It comes in at 104 grams per liter of residual sugar. This is the Bicentenary Edition of this old house. Focused and tight—probably the tightest of the Symington 2015s—it is hard-edged and precise, but it does seem to have streaks of alcohol and baked, slightly roasted fruit. This is the one in the Symington 2015 stable that most obviously fits the old Port stereotype—massive and impenetrable when young. It easily needs the most time. Big, deep and a bit harsh and astringent just now, it is a little hard to evaluate fully. It may well improve with cellaring, but it will likely be the least attractive to drink young. It was also, to me, the least convincing for the moment, but it certainly has some upside potential. If it comes around well and integrates its parts, it should easily age gracefully for several more decades. This has been released. There were 3,500 cases produced, plus some large-format bottles.

Fantastic aromas of crushed berries and flowers. Some mineral undertones. Violets. Very fine and polished with ultra-fine tannins. Medium sweet. Fresh and extremely clean. Very crisp and clean for such hot year. This celebrates the 200th anniversary of Cockburn. Best in 2026.

This was the Syms’ second vintage port from this house. From 70% Quinta dos Canais and quite a bit from Quinta do Vale Coelho. South-facing vines. 40% Touriga Nacional, 40% Touriga Franca, 9% old mixed vines (350 g of fruit per vine) and a bit of Alicante and Sousão. 3,500 cases – just 10% of production (very unusual in the world of wine). Blackish purple. Neat and focused and fresh and luscious. Quite sweet and purple and very charming. Tingling on the finish. Very exciting and energetic. Some black-pepper top note on the sweetness. Quite a dry end. Lots of chew. Very long term and ambitious. Hint of Edinburgh rock. (JR)