2014 Mr De Compostella

(one-third new oak aging): Dark ruby. Sexy musky scents of black cherry, cassis, black berry, licorice, pepper and wild herbs. Plush, ripe, sweet and savory, offering serious depth to its flavors of black fruits and woodsmoke. This wonderfully energetic wine really echoes on the finish. With its tannins well supported by fruit, this clever blend has the structure for a graceful evolution.

The 2014 De Compostella is a blend of 45% Cabernet Franc, 18% Malbec, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot, each from different parcels around Stellenbosch, including one new parcel from the Faure vineyard for this vintage. Bruwer told me that the barrels are tasted blind and scored, and they are whittled down to the best until they have the best wine. It boasts a very impressive bouquet with superb delineation and focus: blackberry, bilberry, a light marine influence and a hint of tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin on the entry that probably belies the structure of this wine. It is very harmonious, as usual, with a lovely sappiness towards the finish. Not as intense as other vintages that I have tasted, nevertheless it is one of the most refined, and perhaps the 2014 will require less bottle age than in previous seasons. In a word: class.

Subdued and restrained, elegant cassis, black fruit, cedar and charming leafiness, with understated oak (just 30% new) in perfect harmony. 2017 Platter's Guide, www.wineonaplatter.com