2011 Chateauneuf du Pape

The top wine (formerly called the Reserve Sixtine), the 2011 Cuvee Sixtine Chateauneuf du Pape is the best of the 2011s and an interesting blend of 40% Grenache, 35% Mourvedre and 25% Syrah that was aged 60% in barrels. Beautifully concentrated, with toast, pepper, earth and blackberry-driven aromas and flavors, it flows onto the palate with a medium to full-bodied, concentrated and rich texture that is decidedly un-2011 like. Beautifully done and a rock-solid wine in the vintage, it should have a decade of longevity. Drink 2014-2021. Run by the Diffonty family, with the wines made by Jean-Marc, Chateau Sixtine covers over 50 acres in Chateauneuf du Pape. Previously named Cuvee du Vatican, they have now split that off into a negociant label, with the estate wines released as Chateau Sixtine. In a given vintage, they can release three red Chateauneuf du Papes, the negociant Cuvee du Vatican, the second wine of the estate, the Manus Dei, and their top cuvee, Chateau Sixtine. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

Bright purple. Intensely perfumed red and dark berry aromas are complicated by subtle smoke and floral qualities. Sweet raspberry and blackberry preserve flavors show impressive depth and pick up a licorice nuance with air. Closes on an attractively sweet note, with excellent clarity and lingering smokiness.

40% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 35% Mourvèdre. From the domaine that used to be known as Cuvée du Vatican. Very dark crimson. Intense and spicy nose but very tough, tight structure. Not very friendly. More air? (JR)