2015 Meursault Les Charmes

The 2015 Meursault Les Charmes 1er Cru is very difficult to read on the nose, an early-picked wine that here reveals unappealing light vegetal notes. The light, simple palate is slightly bitter. The finish feels one-dimensional compared to some of the best wines from Genevrières and does not quite articulate the sophistication of this great vineyard. I was very surprised to find out this was one of Dominique Lafon's wines and I will seek to revisit it before awarding a score. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting. (DIAM 30 closure)

From barrel, I preferred Lafon's 2015 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes to his Perrières, and that preference manifested itself a year and a half later under blind conditions. Wafting from the glass with aromas of crisp peach, yellow orchard fruit, nutmeg and honey, it's a full-bodied, layered and multidimensional wine with terrific depth and concentration but rendered in a satiny, elegant style. Pure, precise and beautifully delineated, it was bottled under Diam 30.

(on its finings): Palish yellow. Aromas and flavors of ripe peach, lemon and smoky minerality, plus an element of vanillin oak. A wonderfully broad, sweet, seamless 2015 with surprising lift and no impression of undue weight. Not quite as smooth as the Genevrières but more explosive in the middle palate. Finishes wonderfully fresh and long, with piquant spicy lift. Should be outstanding.