1990 Vouvray Clos Naudin Moelleux Goutte d'Or

The 1990 Vouvray Moelleux Goutte d'Or was picked at the end of October in one sweep through the vines. It underwent no triage and only light pressing, and probably contains around 170gm/L of residual sugar (I have no exact figure). Iridescent in the glass, it shows disarming purity on the nose, offering fragrant, exquisitely defined scents of quince, elderflower, caramelized pear and white peach. The palate is effortlessly balanced and precise, and again, ineffably pure, maintaining astonishing tension from start to slightly viscous finish. Hints of fig linger tantalizingly on the aftertaste. To be honest, this Vouvray verges on faultless and is a magnificent achievement.