2014 Quinta do Noval
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Tasting notes
The 2014 Vintage Port is certainly the most backward of Noval's recent vintages, notes of black fruit, orange rind, sage, flecks of powdered dark chocolate and white pepper. The palate is ripe and viscous on the entry, tightly-knit and probably not as precise as subsequent vintages, just missing a bit of flair towards the finish. I wonder whether this is in an awkward phase? Very linear at the moment, but the precision is there. Keep this in the cellar. Incidentally, this was Noval's smallest declaration of 700 cases. Tasted at the Quinta do Noval tasting at Spring restaurant in London.
Critic scores
Average Score
Mark Squires
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
The 2014 Vintage Port is part of our mini-vertical this issue. Sexy and delicious, this is pretty much ready to drink now, in theory. When first poured, it was a bit tight, but another look with decanting showed that it was ready to roll, needing no more time at all. If it's not a terribly well-structured Port by Noval's standards, it still has some at least. The good news is that the flavors have evolved a little, justifying my initial optimism. My first look had the flavor profile showing overly dry and a little washed out. Now, there's fruit too—at least some. This will never be a particularly impressive Noval, but it should still drink well over a couple of decades, at least. Maybe it will surprise us in the end, but it is worth noting that it was blasted off the table by its siblings in this issue's mini-vertical, seeming duller, weaker and more stolid.
A defiant declaration. Along with Churchill, the exception that proves the rule? Very deep crimson. Herbal, sinuous nose with a strong skein of barley scents. Not one of richest vintage ports, this certainly has vigour. Dry finish and something reminiscent of treacle toffee without the sugar. Keep this quite a while! (JR)
The 2014 Tinto, the estate red with just Quinta do Noval on the label, is an 80/20 blend of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca, aged for 18 months in French oak of varying ages (22% new). This Tinto shows some of the issues of the vintage—muted flavors and lack of expression—but it is more tightly wound than the Touriga, also reviewed, and it lingers nicely on the finish. It has a bright, fresh feel and an elegant demeanor. The concentration is respectable for the year; this seems to be the bottling where Noval pulled it together as well as possible in this scary vintage. I'm not sure it has a lot of upside potential in the cellar, but it can still improve if you cellar it for a couple of years. It will be approachable young, though, and I have my doubts as to whether it will reward extended cellaring. Overall, though, this is an excellent off-vintage performance. It may yet be entitled to an uptick. Apr 2017, www.robertparker.com