2015 Romanee St Vivant

(13.3% natural alcohol, from a healthy crop level of 42 hectoliters per hectare): Bright dark red. Lovely lift to the aromas of blackberry, licorice and violet. At once fine-grained and penetrating, even a bit unyielding today, showing strong medicinal reserve to its black fruit, menthol and licorice flavors. Still, this is harmonious from the outset, even if the Malconsorts shows more volume in the early going. Best today on the rising finish, which features substantial edge-free tannins and noteworthy finesse.

As usual, there are three barrels of Cathiard's 2015 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru, though whereas historically it was 100% new oak, there are two new and a single one-year-old barrel maturing this wine. It finished its malolactic in June. It has a very composed and pure bouquet that gains in volume with time, with aeration bunches of wilted violet. The palate is medium-bodied with silky tannin, great structure and freshness here, the judicious use of new oak allowing the terroir to show through. It feels correct and strict on the finish, no bravura climax, rather finishing in more understated fashion and keeping you hooked.

70-year-old vines. Very pure aroma and unformed but pure fruit waiting to be transformed into a pure wine. Still dry on the end but very promising ingredients. (JR)