2003 Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos

(10% alcohol, 226 g/l r.s. and 9.8% g/l acidity): Deep, bright orange. Wild, almost funky nose offers scents of apricot, honey, flint, game and truffle accented by mint and cumin, along with a slightly advanced nutty quality. Superconcentrated and thick but with strong acidity and a piquant note of orange peel giving a freshness to the middle palate that I would never have expected following the nose. Finishes tactile, chewy, dense, very thick and quite long but could use a bit more nuance for a 6 puttonyos wine.

The growing season that bore the 2003 Tokaji Aszu 6-Puttonyos was apparently similar to the 2000. It delivers 228 grams per liter residual sugar with 9.4 grams per liter acidity. Lucid amber in color, it boasts an exotic, decadent bouquet of mango, molasses, Chinese 5-spice and dried quince that does not quite deliver the delineation of the best 5-Puttonyos from Oremus. The palate, however, does deliver. It has superior focus and delineation than augured by the aromatics, with vibrant marmalade and quince notes. The acidity is extremely well-judged and lends the finish the weightless intensity that makes a great aszu wine. It is just the aromatics that let the side down. Drink now-2030. Oremus is one of the most well-known wineries in Tokaji. I visited their winery in the village of Tolcsva, where their 115-hectare vineyard is located. This includes prestigious first class parcels that belonged to the Rakoczi and Szirmay families in the 18th century. And there was a sense of opulence at Oremus that I rarely encountered elsewhere in Tokaj. It not only infused their impressive portfolio, but was translated in their splendid tasting room, furnished with plush antique furniture more suited to a Bordeaux chateau. Of course, that has no bearing on the wines themselves, which are generally top quality and some of the purest Tokaj wines that you will find in the region. Importer: Christopher Cannan, Europvin; www.europvin.com