2015 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese

Like the corresponding Niederberg Helden, this reflects air-dried, healthy berries plus only a modest quotient of botrytis. Apple jelly and quince preserves are laced with vanilla and lime in a performance at once creamy and animatingly juicy. Hints of heliotrope waft across the nearly weightless palate, and the long finish, unusually for an Auslese, refreshes even as it soothes, revealing crystalline stony impingements.