2015 Graacher Domprobst Beerenauslese

White peach preserves and quince jelly garlanded in bittersweetly perfumed iris and laced with efficaciously bright lime and grapefruit make for a yet more concentrated variation on the themes found in this year’s auction Auslese, combining richness with vivacity in a remarkably harmonious way. A creamy feel and utmost buoyancy render this the tenderest of Schaefer 2015s, yet it hums with restrained, undeniably electric energy that promises long-term stamina (as does also, of course, an amazing estate track record). Hints of almond paste and vanilla add faintly confectionary allure, but infectiously juicy fresh citrus brightness keeps relentlessly refreshing. Botrytis makes its presence overtly felt only by way of faint, haunting hints of truffle and yeasty, freshly baked white bread. The finish unfolds almost endlessly, with mineral salts tugging at the salivary glands. (As if the next sip weren’t already going to be irresistible enough.) Needless to say, this will easily take its place in the long litany of profound and long-lived Schaefer Beerenauslesen.