2014 Chablis Vaudesir

(just finished its malolactic fermentation; from domain vines; Billaud has plots on both hillsides in Vaudésir): Pale medium yellow. Sexy high-toned aromas of orange zest, green apple, ginger, lichee and white pepper. Rich and sweet, showing a hint of banana (likely from the recent end to the malo) and strong, ripe acidity (4.8 grams per liter, the highest of these 2014s) that needs time to harmonize with the wine's fruit. Still showing a slight malic edge. This wine was slated to have been racked into tank at the end of June and should be bottled at the end of the year. "The western part of the the cru is particularly high in acidity," noted Billaud. Very long on the aftertaste but tricky to assess today.

The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir comes from two parcels facing east and west that Samuel Billaud told me complement each other. This had only finished its malolactic three weeks prior to my tasting. Perhaps as a consequence of that the nose is stubborn and backward. The palate is more expressive, hints of orange rind and citrus peel, superb mineralité and a sophisticated, beautifully focused finish that will be glorious once in bottle. Oh yes – this is Samuel Billaud in full glorious flight. I cannot wait to taste this in bottle once those aromatics start to blossom.

Tank sample to be bottled October 2015. Green fruits on the nose. Very aromatic. Great delineation and precision. Really what Chablis is all about! Very long. (JR)