1977 Cockburn

Undeclared vintage. John Smithes preferred the 1978. First successful post-revolution vintage. ‘Our (Symington) family were worried about whether we would be allowed to stay in Portugal in 1974 even though I was 10 and the third generation to be born in Portugal’. The US market took this vintage to heart. ‘This was the all-star vintage that paid for my education in England – it was a huge commercial success particularly in the US, partly thanks to James Suckling’s enthusiasm’. Unfortunately Cockburn’s didn’t share in that success because this was the heyday of CSR (Cockburn’s Special Reserve). Famously the management in Oporto were asked how much CSR they could make if they didn’t declare a vintage. A shame they missed a great boat but the wily local management decided to bottle quite a lot of vintage anyway as ‘crusted port’ which it says on the cork. Paul Symington is trying to convince the IVDP (Port and Douro Wines Institute) that it should be declared long after and they were tasting it today: 1341 bottles exist. Mid to pale ruby with a pale rim. Nutty old fully mature nose. Rich and digestive biscuit notes. Some heat. This wine was probably made without electricity and probably saw a bit of heat. Briary and a dry finish. Some rose petals. Not especially luscious. But a fine reminder of an era. It certainly isn’t heavy. (JR)

NB Not declared. This is another wine that says Crusted on the cork. This was one of the first vintages after the 1974 revolution with 1975 having been a bit of damp squib. This was the first vintage the US bought into seriously and bought almost as much as UK (thanks to the enthusiasm and writings of one James Suckling of the Wine Spectator ). Lateish vintage. Heatwave in early September. Production levels were ‘enormous’; the problem was what to reject. John Smithes preferred the 1978 (which was also declared by Quinta do Noval). Cockburn’s Special Reserve was in its heyday. Huge TV ad budgets. Bristol asked: if you don’t declare a vintage, how much Special Reserve can you make? According to Peter Cobb, ‘this was the worst commercial decision made in my life [to give in to Bristol head office and not declare the 1977]. Somewhere in the Harvey archives there will be a firmly worded memo from me to say that 2,500 cases should have been made, especially in view of US market’s enthusiasm.’ Mid ruby and looks just off bright. Warm, rich, quite baked. (The 1977s lost their colour earlier than most vintages.) Very transparent. Beautifully ethereal. A little hot on the end. Not the most intense. Not absolutely tiptop but very satisfying. Lovely freshness on the finish. Claret from the Douro! (JR)

Mid ruby, or even just light red. Smudgy indistinct nuttiness. Sweet red wine rather than port. Rather ordinary. Sugar and alcohol but no finesse connecting the two. Harsh, very spirity finish. Difficult to see how this will improve. (JR)