2014 Le Montrachet
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Tasting notes
As expected – the 2014 leaps from the glass, almost making itself known before any swirling has begun. Very ripe and pungent citrus, limes, lemons, slight hint of herbs. Smokey and minerally, hint of struck match, slate. Once again, the harmony of al components (which are present in abundance); weight, concentration, dry extract, acidity – is remarkable. The classic Montrachet power and weightlessness is very evident, clearly a wine for the long-term but how special to try in such an early phase of evolution. Saline and complex. Classy and rich, simply outstanding.
Critic scores
Average Score
Tim Atkin MW
Neal Martin
More reviews and scores
Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, the 2014 Montrachet Grand Cru from Domaine des Comtes Lafon has a clean and fresh bouquet, perhaps just a bit too much lime for my liking, although there is mineralité tucked in just behind. The palate is fresh and saline on the entry with a superb line of acidity. There is weight and presence to this Montrachet, and it gains weight and delivers a knockout, extremely persistent finish tinged with lemon thyme and sherbet. Though a little disjointed at present, I suspect this will turn into a wonderful Montrachet with style and class. But be warned that it will require several years in bottle.
(still in tank): Distinctly wild aromas of pineapple, iodine, resiny oak and caraway seed lifted by a floral topnote. Then brooding and a bit lower-toned on the palate than the Perrières but with a texture of liquid velvet to its plush, soil-driven flavors of ripe stone fruits and smoky minerality. This youthfully musky, extremely backward wine does not currently display the sheer verve of Lafon's supernal Meursault Perrières but it boasts outstanding sweetness for the year and a wonderfully tactile, building, palate-dusting finish. This wine will need extended cellaring.